You can make your own cleansing grains with 1 cup ground oats, 1/4 cup ground almonds, 2 cups white clay and 1 or 2 drops essential oils of lavender or geranium. Store in a glass jar in the bathroom. Oatmeal or cornmeal can be powdered and mixed with milk, yogurt or water and used as a very gentle cleanser. Grated potato makes a cleanser that is healing to blemishes. Baking soda can be used as an exfoliant and anti-inflammatory agent. Avoid scrubbing; just apply gently.

For oily skin, a cleanser can be made of buttermilk mixed with sea salt. Regular sugar can be used as a natural exfoliant. Even though we should do our best to avoid eating sugar, it is quick-dissolving and helps to cleanse and clear the skin. First cleanse the skin, then apply a light coating of vegetable oil. Using about a teaspoon of sugar, apply to several spots on the face. Use small circular motions being careful not to stretch the skin. Avoid using scrubs on very sensitive skin.

Ideally, cleanse the face with hot water and rinse with at least 10 splashes of cold water to remove any residue of cleanser.

Whenever the face needs to be wiped, such as in makeup removal, avoid using synthetic cotton balls or paper tissues which often contain irritating particles that can scratch the skin. Use only 100 percent cotton balls. Cleanse the face morning and night and never go to bed with makeup on your face.

Staying out of the sun altogether is the easiest way to avoid sun damage. Of course small amounts of sunshine are essential and can prevent vitamin D deficiency and promote healing and skin growth. Sunbathing can cause premature aging of the skin and even cancer. If you do chose to lie in the sun, the hours between 9 and 10 a.m. and 3 and 5 p.m. will expose you to less intense rays of ultraviolet burning rays. Fair skin is more sun-sensitive than dark skin, but the sun's rays penetrate into the lower dermis so that even those with very dark skin still need to protect their skin.

Do wear a hat with a wide brim and protective clothing. Be aware that some medications such as tetracycline, antihistamines, antidepressants, hormones and birth control pills can increase photosensitivity. Even natural substances can increase sun sensitivity such as essential oils made from citrus fruits, including bergamot and neroli and Saint John's wort. High altitude exposure is more intense as are the reflected rays of sand and snow

Do apply a sunscreen with an SPF of at least 15 and reapply if you will be swimming or sweating. Green coffee beans and black walnut are two botanicals with some natural sunscreening activity. Shea butter works as a mild sunscreen and helps to hold moisture within the skin. However do not get a false sense of security from wearing sunscreen; it is still best to minimize sun exposure in order to prevent cancer.

Eat plenty of foods rich in natural antioxidants such as sweet potatoes, winter squash and carrots which are high in beta-carotene. Taking a supplement of 1,000 mg PABA (a B vitamin) can help prevent damage on a cellular level. Drink plenty of water.

If sunburn does occur, topical soothers include essential oil of lavender, aloe vera juice, compresses of strong black tea, cucumber slices, potato juice, yogurt or a cup of apple cider vinegar added to the bath. To sunburned lips apply a compress of equal parts milk and water.

The Secret of Youthful Skin

It is best to sleep on your back, as sleeping with the face all crunched up can cause creases which may lead to permanent lines. Also, elevate your head slightly with a pillow so fluids don't collect in the face, causing puffiness. If the pillow is too high, the neck will bend and the face curl towards the chest and impair breathing. There are special pillows designed to support the neck and keep you sleeping on the back that are very comfortable. See Resources.

As we age, our skin loses water. Facial acupressure is a great way to de-stress your face and improve circulation, thus encouraging a more beautiful visage.

Use flaxseed oil as a regular supplement. Lecithin helps to encourage the plumping of withered skin. Make sure to get adequate protein. Avoid squinting and frowning as this will emboss unnecessary lines into your face. What we think affects how we look. It is a known fact that anger can redden the skin, fear can whiten it and joy can make you radiant. Be a channel of love, compassion and kindness.

Exercise increases the skin's temperature, improves circulation and helps to increase collagen production. It also delivers oxygen and nutrients to the skin. Get aerobic exercise several times a week. For rough scaly skin eat silica-rich foods like oats and bran and also tie a handful of either or both into a washcloth and use it to wash the skin.

If your skin is scaly, take a tablespoon of flaxseed oil daily and two tablespoons of lecithin.

 

Special Areas:

• The Lips

Cracked skin around the lip area can indicate a need for the B vitamins. Remember to moisturize the upper lip area. An exercise to prevent lines forming around the mouth and nose is to curl the lips around the teeth, press the lips together, then blow out hard. Honey can be used as a moisturizer on the lips. Rub a cut strawberry or raspberry over the lips to moisturize, gently color and give delicious kisses.

• The Neck

The neck is one of the first parts of the body to show aging. Remember to moisturize it using light oils, tapping gently to prevent a double chin. When moisturizing the neck use gentle upward strokes, starting from the base of the neck and working to the chin point. Practice gentle neck stretches by dropping the chin to one shoulder and then making a half-circle across the front of the body to the opposite shoulder. Reverse. You can also drop your chin down to your collarbone, then up to the ceiling, bringing your hands to the base of the skull to provide support.

• Around the Eyes

The skin around the eye area is very thin and thus is one of the first areas to show signs of aging. Even if you have oily skin, the eye area still needs moisturizing. When touching the eye area to moisturize, the best way is to gently press the skin, rolling the finger gently, working from the inner corner of the eye out. When cleansing makeup from the delicate eye area, use a cotton ball moistened with almond oil.

If you want to tighten the eye area after cleansing, apply a light coating of buttermilk.

Puffy eyes can be caused by a food allergy, crying or exhaustion. Drinking nettle tea on a regular basis, avoiding allergens and getting enough rest are essential.

Home remedies for puffy eyes include lying down (on a slant board if possible) with a thin slice of raw peeled potato, melon, apple, or cucumber over each eye. Cooled moistened tea bags are another option. Use chamomile, cornflower, elderflower, eyebright, marshmallow root and/ or black tea. To make a compress to reduce puffiness in the under eye area, make a tea of any of the preceding herbs, strain and chill. Soak a small clean cloth in the chilled brew and lie down and relax with the compress over the eyes. Or use a cooled used tea bag over each eye.

At night, apply a bit of castor oil to the eyelashes to encourage their growth.

Eyestrain causes squinting and thus eye wrinkles. If you have to read or study for long periods of time, focus on a distant point once every hour. Gaze out the window or look at a pretty picture on the wall. Don't rub your eyes; exercising them is a much better idea. Try this exercise to firm puffiness: open the eyes wide, then squeeze them shut tightly. Repeat several times.

Facial exercises can increase circulation to the face and make us look and feel more vital. The best time to do facial exercises is before bed, but doing them when very tense can also be beneficial. Remember to breathe when doing these and all exercises. As you exhale, visualize facial tensions melting.

Avoid resting the face in the hands or pressing your face into the telephone.

Always lubricate the skin well before performing facial exercises. Don't wrinkle or stretch the skin; practice pressing.

• To prevent and remedy forehead lines look straight ahead while raising the eyebrows as high as possible. Repeat several times.

• To prevent mouth area lines, make an exaggerated smile with the mouth closed. Relax lips. Puff out the cheeks with air and move the air from side to side, then slowly blow it out. Repeat several times.

• To reduce a double chin, open the mouth wide and thrust the lower lip outwards and upwards, trying to touch the nose. Repeat several times.

• Try ''The Lion." Sit upright and open your eyes and mouth wide while extending the tongue toward the chin. Hold for a count of seven and repeat six more times.

• Fill the mouth with air so that the cheeks puff out. Roll the air around in the mouth. After 20 seconds, let the air out with a pop. Repeat two more times.

• Practice light tapping of the face.

A facial steam is an excellent way to deep cleanse, relax muscles and improve circulation as you give yourself an invigorating rosy glow. Wash your face first. Pour 1 quart of boiling water over a handful of herbs in a heatproof glass bowl. Tie your hair back. Drape a towel over your head to create a tent-like effect over the bowl. Keep your face about 10 inches away from the water source to avoid getting burned as you inhale the sensuous steam for 5 to 7 minutes. Facial steams can be used once or twice a week. Select the appropriate herbs for your skin type.

• Acne: lavender, red clover blossoms, strawberry leaves.
• Blackheads: elder flower, rosemary.
• Combination skin: chamomile, lavender, licorice, peppermint.
• Dry skin: chamomile, comfrey leaves, elder flower, fennel seed, lavender, licorice, red clover, roses.
• Oily skin: Eucalyptus, juniper berries, lavender, lemon grass, lemon peel, peppermint, pine, sage, strawberry leaves.
• Sensitive skin: calendula, chamomile.

 

Masks

Kitchens yield an array of ingredients that can be used to feed the skin from the outside. There are many types of masks that can be made in the kitchen from fresh ingredients that nourish the skin. These are fun to use, cost-effective and free of preservatives. Simply run the ingredients through the blender, if necessary, apply while you relax in the bathtub or lie on a slant board. (You may even use the pulp from your juicer for a mask if you've just juiced something from the following list.) Masks may be used once or twice a week. They are especially lovely to use while lying on a slant board for 20 minutes. Using a slant board is a wonderful way to destress on a daily basis, and lying on one for 10 minutes daily helps to prevent wrinkles and improve skin quality. I bought one as a present to myself a few years back and love it. However, a slant board should not be used by anyone who has had a recent stroke, has very high blood pressure or a detached retina without consulting with a physician.

• Fruit, yogurt, and buttermilk. Contain the much touted alpha-hydroxy acids that stimulate new cell growth, are humectant and result in younger-looking skin.
• Almonds. Ground and mixed with water, helpful for dry skin as well as blackheads and enlarged pores. Almonds are emollient and cleansing when shelled and finely ground. They are rich in calcium and beta-carotene.
• Apple. Use for dry, oily and blemished skin. Excellent for exfoliating, mildly astringent and soothing. Rich in calcium, iron, phosphorus and potassium.
• Apricots. Use to enliven tired or oily skin and prevent wrinkles. Rich in beta-carotene.
• Avocado. Highly nutritive, contains penetrating oils for very dry skin.
• Banana. Nourishing for dry and normal skin. Helps to soften skin and free it of impurities.
• Brewer's yeast or nutritional yeast. Nourishing, deeply cleansing, good for oily skin, tightening. Enlivens dull-looking skin. Rich in B vitamins and protein.
• Carrots. When lightly cooked and mashed, carrots help to nourish and treat blemishes due to their antiseptic properties; also good for dry skin. Good source of beta-carotene, iron and potassium.
• Clay. Use only dry cosmetic quality clay. Absorbs toxins. There are several types of clay available. Blue clay is anti-inflammatory and useful for acne-prone, very sensitive skin. The blue color is due to the presence of natural cobalt. Green clay is rich in chromium, copper and nickel. It is good for oily skin. Red clay is naturally high in iron and good for normal skin. White clay is the mildest of all and contains aluminum oxide and zinc oxide. Fuller's earth and kaolin are both very fine clays, useful for oily skin. Avoid using clay close to the eye area as it can be too drying.
• Cucumber. Cooling, soothing and astringent for oily skin, enlarged pores, freckles, sunburn. Helps reduce puffiness and inflammation.
• Egg white. Tightening, use to minimize wrinkles.
• Egg yolk. For dry skin.
• Grapes (white seedless). Cooling, soothing and lightens the skin. Good for all skin types. Helps to heal chapped skin. Rich in sugars, beta-carotene, B vitamins and E.
• Honey. Moisturizes and tightens, very nutritive. Good for lackluster skin, enlarged pores and blackheads. Try applying honey on the face and neck then gently tap over the area for two minutes. Rinse well.
• Lemon. For lightening, uneven pigment, liver spots, antiseptic. Helps to restore normal acid balance to skin. Helps to tighten enlarged pores. Not for very dry skin. Dilute with water before using.
• Oatmeal. Use leftover cooked oatmeal for blackheads, dry and oily skin. Helps to soften the skin. Can be used instead of soap as a cleansing agent for very sensitive skin.
• Mayonnaise. Made from eggs and vinegar for very dry skin, rich in vitamin A, lecithin and protein.
• Cantaloupe. Pore tightening, refreshing; use for oily and dry skin.
• Papaya. Exfoliating, helps to get rid of dead skin cells; benefits oily skin. Green unripe papaya is even more effective.
• Pineapple. Exfoliating.
• Peach. To enliven tired, irritated and dry skin; anti-inflammatory and prevents wrinkles.
• Pear. For dry, normal and oily skin. Calms sore, inflamed and blotchy skin and sunburn. Contains tannins and natural sugars.
• Potato. Grated raw potato makes an excellent mask for both dry and normal skin. It can calm sunburn. Rich in potassium and vitamin C.
• Seaweed. For dehydrated skin; firming for loose, sagging skin. Rich in iodine, protein and mucilage.
• Sugar. Can be used as a scrub. It dissolves as you scrub, protecting the skin from being abraded.
• Strawberries. Pore cleansing, tightening, lightening; for oily skin and blemished skin. Rich in iron and salicylic acid. Helps eliminate dead skin cells.
• Tomato. Refines pores, blackheads, exfoliant. Good for both dry, blemished and oily skin. Helps to restore natural acid balance of the skin.
• Watermelon. Refreshing and astringent.
• Yogurt. Lightening, for oily or blemished skin. Kills harmful bacteria that makes skin blemish-prone.

If a mask needs to be thickened add a bit of powdered oatmeal or cosmetic clay as a thickening agent. Rinse the mask off. Splash with cool water, pat dry with a towel and finish with a toner.

 

Toners

Using a toner after cleansing helps to keep the skin acid and reduce blemishes that come from bacteria. Toners help to restore the PH of the skin's acid mantle. You can make a toner by putting 1 teaspoon apple cider vinegar or lemon juice in 1/3 cup of water. Spray on face or apply with a ball of 100 percent cotton (not a synthetic puff). For dry skin, rosewater may be applied to help hold in moisture.

You can make a simple aromatherapy toner by adding 4 drops of pure essential oil to an 8-ounce spray bottle of mineral water. Some suggestions for essential oils to choose include:

• Acne-prone skin: Bergamot, geranium, juniper, lavender, lemon, neroli, rosemary, sandalwood, tea tree, thyme.
• Normal skin: Chamomile, geranium, jasmine, lavender, neroli, rose, rosewood.
• Dry skin: Carrot seed oil, chamomile, fennel, frankincense, geranium, lavender, melissa, myrrh, neroli, rose, rose geranium, sandalwood.
• Mature skin: Frankincense, myrrh, neroli, patchouli, rose geranium, sandalwood, rose.
• Oily skin: Cypress, eucalyptus, geranium, juniper, lemon, orange, rosemary.
• Psoriasis: Bergamot, geranium, jasmine, lavender, melissa, sandalwood.
• Rosacea skin: Chamomile, peppermint.
• Sensitive skin: Chamomile, lavender.

Witch hazel can also be used as a toner for oily or acne-prone skin. Many toners contain alcohol, which can decrease oiliness and tighten pores, but can also over-strip the skin's natural oils and cause a leathery look. Toners containing alcohol should be used only by those with very oily skin. The alcohol percentage should not exceed 25 percent. Another easy and effective toner is ice. Rub an ice cube over the face after cleansing. This should be done after cleansing and before moisturizing.

 

Be sure to select only cold-pressed oils that are free of preservatives and kept in the refrigerator to preserve freshness.

• Almond oil. Use for normal and dry skin. Doesn't become rancid quickly. Good to use in aromatherapy products as it is light and odorless.
• Avocado. For dry and mature skin. Spreads easily, rich in beta carotene, and vitamins B, D and E as well as lecithin.
• Castor oil. For dry skin. Deeply penetrating and enriching. Used to help eliminate scars.
• Cocoa butter. For dry skin, very softening and lubricating. Helps to eliminate scarring.
• Coconut oil. Very nourishing and moisturizing. Use for oily skin.
• Corn oil. For normal to oily skin.
• Grapeseed oil. Light, good carrier oil for aromatherapy.
• Hazelnut oil. Light and rich.
• Jojoba oil. A liquid wax, doesn't turn rancid easily, doesn't clog pores. Good for oily and acne-prone skin.
• Olive oil. Rich and pure, excellent for very dry and sensitive skin. It is deeply penetrating. Be sure to use extra virgin. The disadvantage is that you will smell like salad dressing temporarily.
• Peanut oil. For dry skin. Deeply penetrating, fairly stable shelf life.
• Safflower oil. For normal to oily skin. High in linoleic acid. Inexpensive.
• Sesame oil. Good for dry, normal and oily skin. Used in sunscreen preparations. Highly nutritive. Doesn't become rancid easily. Washes out of fabrics more easily than other oils.
• Shea butter. A natural sun screen, rich in beta-carotene, vitamin E and allantoin. Refrigerate, as it spoils quickly.
• Soy oil. Oily skin, high in linoleic acid, lecithin and vitamin E. Can clog pores.
• Sunflower oil. For normal to oily skin. Rich in lecithin and linoleic acid.
• Wheat germ oil. Rich in beta-carotene, vitamins D, E and lecithin. Helps prevent scarring. Sticky and thick, naturally antioxidant. Best to dilute with other lighter oils.

Petroleum products such as mineral oil and baby oil can clog the pores and impair the assimilation of fat-soluble vitamins. Do not use.

Moisturizers add and help the skin retain moisture. Every time you cleanse your skin, a moisturizer should be applied; even the oiliest complexions need some around the eye and mouth area. Using a light moisturizer on even oily skin can help calm the skin into producing less oil by providing what is needed. You can add 6 to 10 drops of pure essential oil for every ounce of vegetable oil, cosmetic grade collagen or lanolin to make your own moisturizer. Other recipes are given at the end of the book.

Moisturizers should always be applied with an upward motion. Do not move the skin forcefully as this can weaken collagen.

 

Massaging the Face

Before applying any oil preparation, it is good to gently open the pores with a warm water steam. Practice this at least once a week. When applying a mask or moisturizer, simply press the substance into the skin, remembering the area under the chin, the neck and back of neck. Use your fingertips and start at the base of the neck. Leave the juices and/or food on for 10 minutes, then rinse without soap, using lukewarm water. End with ice water to close the pores and firm the skin. Apply moisturizer last. The oil can be tapped gently into the skin using the backs of the hands.

 

• Acne

Acne can have many causes. Stress, food sensitivities, yeast overgrowth, medication and allergies may all be contributing factors. Acne is likely to occur when sebum, a waxy substance that lubricates the skin, and keratin, a skin protein, block the sebaceous glands. It is important to keep all channels of elimination open, such as the colon, lungs, kidneys and liver. When they do their job of purifying the body, pimples won't end up on your skin. Our organs of elimination, especially the liver, also help to break down excess hormones that could also cause the skin to erupt. When acne occurs in adolescence it is called acne vulgaris. Acne is best treated with diet, herbs and exercise.

The foods that are most beneficial to eat for healing acne include artichokes, barley, beets, cooked carrots, green leafy vegetables and winter squashes. Foods to minimize or avoid include oranges and grapefruit, hot spicy foods, peanut butter, wheat, nuts, high-fat dairy products, fried foods and hydrogenated oils. The hormones that are added to commercial dairy products and meats can overstress the liver. Some people with acne are sensitive to the iodine in shellfish.

Vitamin A helps to reduce sebum and is a natural anti-oxidant. One hundred milligrams of niacin, also known as vitamin B3, is a vasodilator and may make you feel hot, red, itchy and prickly for about 10 minutes. However, it increases nutrients transported to the skin, removes wastes and can help clear up difficult skin conditions such as acne. Caution: Niacin should be avoided by those with rosacea, cuperose conditions and very thin sensitive skin.

Other important nutrients: Zinc, which prevents sebaceous glands from becoming enlarged, and flaxseed oil, which helps the body to better metabolize fats.

Where you feel a pimple about to erupt, rather than squeeze it, try applying spirits of camphor, essential oil of lavender or tea tree oil four or five times daily to help dry it up and perhaps prevent eruption. If you do get an eruption and are prone to scarring, use a salve which includes vitamin E, calendula and comfrey.

Avoid excessive exfoliation, which can stimulate oil glands that are already overactive.

If the skin is bumpy, especially on the arms, dry-brush skin massaging and daily doses of flaxseed oil should help.

• Boils

Boils, also known as furuncles, are a sign of excess heat or infection in the body. These tender, pus-filled, painful areas can be caused by food sensitivity, poor hygiene, a weakened immune system and/or a toxic condition in any organ. Avoid meat, sugar and spicy, oily foods. Eat lots of garlic and drink more water and teas made from red clover, stillingia, burdock and echinacea. It is always important to get a sense of what the boil may indicate. Is it over a particular organ that may be trying to discharge an abundance of toxins? For example, a boil on the chest may indicate toxins in the lungs.

Apply a hot ginger tea compress to the boil or soak the afflicted area in a hot Epsom salt solution (1/2 cup of salt to 1 quart of hot water). Then apply some red clay mixed with apple cider vinegar or an albi plaster (available in health food stores). Leave it on until it dries. Do this several times a day. After the boil breaks, apply echinacea extract to the area several times daily. Some boils indicate a staph infection. Take echinacea tincture internally several times a day to help prevent spreading of the infection.

• Blackheads

Gently massaging baking soda into the skin helps sebum to escape. A gentle scrub of almond meal or cornmeal with a complexion brush can also be used. If one is going to attempt to squeeze out a blackhead (even though this shouldn't be done), the best time is after doing a facial steam or have applied a hot wet compress to the area. This is to ensure that the pores are soft and open. With clean cotton or tissue, squeeze upward and outward. If it doesn't come out easily, stop, or irritation can occur, leaving you with a bigger problem. Afterwards, apply some essential oil of lavender, tea tree oil or distilled witch hazel.

• Enlarged Pores

If the lungs and spleen are weak, the pores are more likely to be enlarged. There are several folk remedies that can give temporary relief to enlarged pores. Grind almonds into a power to use as a gentle scrub. A facial mask of honey or puréed fresh tomato can be left on for 20 minutes, then rinsed off. Try applying buttermilk, aloe vera juice, witch hazel or cucumber juice to the skin after cleansing as a toner.

• Freckles

Though freckles do have their charm, skin likely to freckle usually belongs to those deficient in vitamins A and E. Topical applications of buttermilk, yogurt or elderflower water have been traditionally used to fade freckles. Minimize sun exposure.

• Rashes

If at all possible, figure out the cause of the rash. Have you been eating lots of tomatoes, citrus fruits, mangoes or strawberries lately? They can often cause rashes. Have you used a new skin product such as a lotion or bubble bath? Perhaps a new detergent, fabric softener or suntan lotion has made its way into your life. Is stress at a very high level right now? Consider the options and change whatever you suspect may be a cause.

Eat a bland diet featuring grains and vegetables (except tomatoes), and avoid hot spicy foods like ginger and cayenne. Drink teas like calendula, chamomile, Oregon grape root, plantain and yellow dock. Soak in the bathtub with a couple of handfuls of oatmeal tied into a face cloth. Pat the soothing oatmeal mucilage on the affected skin or aloe vera juice or cooled chamomile tea.

• Scars

New scars are easier to minimize than older scars. Avoid sun exposure, which can cause a scar to become more permanently marked on the skin. Take vitamin E internally. Use a salve containing vitamin E, aloe vera, calendula, plaintain and castor oil.

• Warts

Warts are caused by viruses. Louise Hay, author of Love Your Body, says that one common cause of warts is "little expressions of anger and hatred." Forgive the past and protect yourself with thoughts of joy and peace.

Cut down on animal protein foods for awhile. Eat more apples, asparagus, avocados, barley, carrots, cucumbers, garlic, millet, onions and seaweed.

Some of the most effective folk remedies for warts include applying cedar leaf oil, the fresh juice of dandelion stem or flower, fresh fig latex, garlic oil, lavender oil, thuja oil, tea tree oil, fresh milkweed sap, fresh celandine juice, papaya peel, sundew sap or taping on a compress of the inside of a banana peel. It may take a couple of weeks for the wart to disappear. It's okay to file the wart down with an emery board if you file gently. Mayapple tincture can carefully be applied to a wart, but avoid touching any other part of the skin as this plant is somewhat toxic and will irritate the surrounding skin. This is best done by a competent health practitioner.

Soak plantar warts in hot salt water. The banana peel treatment can be used even when wearing shoes and socks. Vitamin E oil by itself or a paste of vitamin C and water can be applied to plantar warts. A podiatrist colleague tells me she uses hypnosis as a way of getting clients' warts to vanish. A practitioner of Oriental medicine can burn cones of moxa close to or on the warts to help them dissipate. Magic has even been used to help eliminate warts. Consider drawing a picture of the body complete with warts and then throwing the drawing into a fire.